Frequently Asked Questions

A Third Conversation

So where are you?

I now live in Chernomorskoe, which is a small town in western Crimea. It's right on the coast; I can walk to the Black Sea. In the summer (from what I've been told) this is a resort town.

That's not on your map.

I know. If you look at my map you'll see that the western tip of Crimea is sort of thumb-shaped. My town is on that thumb, not quite at the tip but a little North-East. It's on the coast.

I think you misspelled it.

Maybe. I'm not a great speller, and I'm translating from Russian. Also, I think it can be spelled in a few different ways, depending on the map.

So how big is Chernomorskoe?

Hmmm....good question. Actually, I'm not sure. I've heard 60,000 and 7,000 and 16,000. The last seems most likely, but really I'm not sure. This is a common problem in Ukraine; no one seems to know how big the towns are.

It's also difficult because Chernomorskoe is a resort town of sorts. There's a lot of infrastructure for tourists, and a lot of huge apartment buildings that are, from what I can gather, largely empty. When summer comes around, all these apartments will fill up. Looking around now, in the middle of winter, I see an awful lot of buildings but not very many people on the street.

Are you freezing?

Not yet! This winter has been mild throughout Ukraine. There hasn't been a lot of snow and what fell has mostly melted. In Crimea there's no snow at all, just mud. And rain. It does snow here, although I haven't seen it yet.

How's your Russian coming?

Well, it's coming. I keep telling myself that. After all, when I came here I knew nothing, and now I know some. How much I know is debatable. I'm certainly not up to debating the current political situation and the relative merits of Yushenko versus Yanukovich.

Yeah! Ukraine has been all over the news. Or at least it was. What's that like?

Here is my standard answer (delivered in Russian, of course). "Peace Corps is a non-religious, apolitical, governmental organization." In other words, I have no opinion on the political candidates. I also no longer wear orange, which means I've had to put away my favorite scarf.

But really it's been amazing being here. So interesting. Up until the end of December (the day of the final election, actually) I was living near Kyiv, which is strong Yushenko country. There was orange everywhere, especially when I went into Kyiv itself. Everywhere I went, people were talking about the election and the news.

Now I am in Crimea, which is strong Yanukovich territory. There is very very little orange here. People still talk about the election, but not as much...although that may also be because the election is over, and I know fewer people here.

Are you living on your own now?

No, not yet. I'm living with a 2nd host family until April, when I'll move into my own apartment.

How are they?

Very nice. It's a mother and daughter (she's 16). There is also a son, but he's in college pretty far away and doesn't visit often.

What's the food like?

Starchy. It's good, but so rich. No meal is complete without potatoes, and almost everything is fried. I'm used to it now, but in the beginning I had a lot of trouble adjusting. (And I still think it's really really weird that they put mayonnaise in an omelet!) I really like borsch--good thing, because there's a lot of it--and there are some great pancake-type things that are awfully yummy. My host mom in Berezan made "sandwichs" that were really good: grated carrots, onion, and egg mixed together then spooned onto a slice of bread and fried on both sides till crispy.

Plus, the fresh fruits and vegetables here (when available--not so much now it's winter) are really wonderful. They have much more flavor than the grocery store variety I bought in California. I'm really looking forward to the summer, when I'm on my own and can cook for myself. I'm going to make so many salads!

Will you get to travel?

Yes, I'll probably travel a fair amount while I'm here. When school is on vacation during the summer I'll have lots of free time. It's hard to tell, though...one Volunteer I met, who was at the end of his service and has now gone home, told me that he didn't travel much at all. Why? Because he was here, in Crimea, and everyone wanted to come to him during the summer. It might be the same for me.

Will you come back to the U.S. to visit?

Probably not. Right now I'd really like to, but it's pretty expensive. A lot of volunteers go home for Christmas at the end of their first year here. Guess I'll wait and see.

What's the stipend like?

It's plenty. I don't want to name numbers here, but it's more than enough for where I live--though nowhere near what you'd need to survive anywhere in the US. I find that I'm embarrassed by my American wealth. (But at the same time I really wish I had all those American luxuries I left behind. Like washing machines.)

Do you need anything? What do you want?

I don't need anything, really, other than letters. I would love to hear from you, and nothing makes me happier than to get a letter. But if you really want to send me something, a good book would be well appreciated.

Do you have a boyfriend?

OK, so maybe this is more a question I get here, rather from all of you back home. But believe me when I tell you I get it all the time.

No, I don't have a boyfriend.

Why not?

I don't know. Right now I'm happy without.

I know a nice Ukrainian boy...

Uh-huh.

Most women here marry early. I am, by Ukrainian standards, a bit of an old maid. Most people are anxious to find someone for me. (My cynical side wonders whether they're thinking of greencards.) If find it kind of funny, since most families I've met are split--the separation rate here is very high. (Husbands and wives often separate without divorcing, even when the separations are permanent.)

Well, it sounds like you're doing great. Good luck!

Thanks!